Coaching Kristy Episode 4

• Kristy sits down at a new table and immediately 3-bets 76hh OTB versus an unknown CO open. BW explains that if the CO is known to be a 4-bet or fold type of player then 3-betting 76hh would be good. Against an unknown at low stakes, we should assume that they tend to call too much which makes calling the open better than 3-betting.
• The BB cold calls Kristy's 3-bet and the CO folds. Flop comes 7s5h3d and the BB leads out $5 into a $11.65 pot. Kristy was lost on what to do in this spot and ended up calling the donkbet. BW explains that raising is better than calling here. Kristy almost always has 9 clean outs if she is not already ahead and she has a decent amount of fold equity versus better hands. Villain is not likely to put anymore money into the pot if he had a hand like AK or AQ that donked so raising will force him to fold his equity share. A raise will also sometimes force him to fold hands medium pocket pairs like 88 or 99 that he decided to donk/fold.
• MP raises to $1.75, folds to Hero in BB. Hero calls $1.25 with KhQs. Flop: Hero checks, MP bets $3, Hero raises to $8.50, MP calls $5.50. Turn: Hero? Board: Flop: 7s4h2h ($3.60) Turn: 9h ($19.75)
• This is a great spot to double barrel and maybe even triple barrel depending on the river card. The 9h improves our equity by giving us another 9 outs and we can credibly represent the turned flush. The river may be a good triple barrel depending on the villain's tendencies. If he is the type that will call the turn with JxJh or AhX and is likely to fold to a third barrel then fire away. Turn bet sizing does not need to be big since our value range is very strong on the turn so about half pot is enough.
• Hero raises UTG with AcAs to $1.75, MP raises to $6, folds to Hero, Hero calls $4.25. Flop: Hero checks, MP checks. Turn: Hero? Board: Flop: Qd2h7h ($12.15) Turn: Ad ($12.15)
• This is a mistake that I might be making too often. I will often times lead the turn once the flop checks through but the obvious play here is to check again. There are three types of hands the MP can have: weak showdown hand, air, monster. We maximize against air by checking the turn to allow the MP to bluff the turn by representing the Ad. Against his monsters, we will stack off by c/r'ing. The weak showdown portion of his range is difficult to extract value from regardless.

The Thin Red Line Episode 2

GC set out to play very loose and aggressive in this video. This isn't his typical style of play but he wanted to get into some interesting spots and show his note taking/hand reading thought process. Take what you will away from the HHs below but some spots are far from standard.

• Minraise against pro SS's because they only push fold. minraise gives us more leverage and better risk to reward.
• BvB, a 3x raise shows an instant profit if villain plays less than 40% of his hands in the BB.
• When someone bets the same size on the turn as they did on the flop, it means the turn card did not help or change their hand in any way.
• Tight players tend to be bad post-flop because they don't get into very many spots.

100NL 6m - CO limps, Hero raises to $4.50 OTB with 4c4s, CO calls $3.50.

• Flop: 4h2sTd ($10)
• CO checks, Hero bets $10, CO raises to $20, Hero raises AI to $114.30, CO folds.
• The CO limper is most likely a fish and the bet size on the flop is irrelevant. He either calls or folds here so a bigger bet is better. When he c/mr the flop, he usually has a Tx hand that most likely won't fold. Shoving here maximizes against that range because overcards could slow down or kill the action.
• note: c/mr T42r folded to jam
• GC from thread: If fish want to find out where they're at with a hand less than top pair, they usually donkbet. The other line they take is c/c. c/mr is usually top pair+ or air in my experience, and they never fold top pair. But both raise sizes are pretty equal in EV I think. I might get him to continue with a slightly wider range maybe by raising small, but I'll also miss some action if an ace rolls off or something on the turn then.

100NL 6m - SB fish raises to $2, Hero raises to $8 in SB with 9d9s, SB calls $6.

• Flop: 9c3c8d ($15.20)
• SB checks, Hero bets $16, SB raises AI to $94.35, Hero calls $78.95. SB shows T8hh.
• This is the same fish from the hand above who made a c/mr and folded to a jam. This might be a better board to slowplay because it is very unlikely for the fish to have TP here but there are more draws so betting here is best. GC bet pot because villain is very unlikely to fold any hand that hits this board. I like the way GC fastplay his hands vs the fish. I take lines that are too standard against fish when it is more +EV to exploit their willingness to call or stack off light. 

100NL 6m - Hero in SB with Jc2d raises to $3, BB reg calls $2.

• Flop: 7h2c8h ($5.70)
• Hero checks, BB bets $5, Hero calls $5.
• Turn: Qh ($15.20)
• Hero checks, BB bets $11, Hero calls $11.
• River: 3d ($36.10)
• Hero checks, BB bets $18, Hero calls $18. BB shows Qs9d.
• This is a pretty interesting hand. GC's thought process: When he doesn't Cb there, it looks like he is going to c/f. The BB is a regular so he will most likely stab with his entire range. If GC Cb's there, he will fold out all of BB's air and get raised by draws and some air. OTT, GC felt that the villain is most likely incapable of value betting thinly so with the overcard and flush out, he is either bluffing or value betting a Qx. OTR, same reasoning as turn. He either has Qx or bluff, if he value bets a strong 8x, then hes probably pretty good. 
• note: bets large when wants a fold, smaller for value?
• Q from thread: J2o - would c/f be too weak in this spot? I typically like to c/c marginal made hands on (ultra)draw-heavy flops and thought J2 here was worse than marginal. And we don't know much about villain's postflop tendencies yet.
• A from GC: Why would you c/f with a pair in BvB? If you're gonna c/f you should just cbet. I check to let him bluff because when I check I look like air that's giving up. And as you see it worked.
• Q from thread: Isn't it much better to c/r this type of hand since if he is cbetting his entire range the least amount of outs he has is 6 and a lot of turncards will force you to c/f..
• A from GC: But I'm not planning to c/f alot of turn cards. If anything a bad card will make him more likely to bluff. By check-raising I just get called by all his pairs, open myself up to draw re-raises, etc. Yeah I (likely) fold out air but then I might as well checkraise this board with all my air myself. I'd rather checkraise for value/(semi)bluff and cbet or c/c with mere showdown value. Yes, it will put me in harder spots and checkraising makes the hand easier to play, but you shouldn't take a lower EV line just because it's easier if you're capable of handling the harder spots. If a flop c/c will put you in a spot where you don't really know what you're doing and you might make mistakes, then don't do it.
• Comment from thread: I really dont agree with this, the worst part oh his range has like 6 outs, and i just think you have to little equity to c/c this. without betting initiative and being oop this cant be +ev... imo 
• Reply from GC: Well, c/f is a horrible line, and c/r is not good for reasons I already posted. So it's a c/c or a cbet. If I cbet I put in 1 bet. If I c/c I also put in 1 bet. So the same amount of money goes in. But when I cbet, he'll continue with a tighter range than when I check. So I put in an equal amount of money, but I get more value. It also takes away his ability to (semi)bluffraise me. c/c just results in harder turn/river spots, but I think I'm equipped to handle them. If I wasn't, c/c would be bad. Harder doesn't mean lower EV.
• Comment from thread: Yeah, I thought this as well. C/c makes this a guessing game vs a random player who we can only assume is a regular at this point. We can't call turn or river either imo because he doesn't know much of us and is unlikely to barrel total air with such a betsize, and any air he is barreling most likely has a broadway heart in it, which has a lot of equity against us.
• Reply from GC: If you think he's gonna bet a lot of turns (and rivers) and it's just too much heat for us to continue with, then you should c/c with overpairs etc here, or with draws to c/r the turn because you get tons of value/dead money that way.
• And just because a certain line makes the hand harder to play doesn't mean it has a lower EV. Sometimes the hardest line has a higher EV. The better you get at poker, the less you'll be guessing on the later streets. You only find the spot hard because you're not used to it and you're playing against a wide range instead of a well defined range. I suggest you try playing some HU because there every hand you'll be playing against a wide range and essentially playing a guessinggame, even against fish. Yet it's possible to have a winrate at HU despite these properties. If you really want easy decisions, stop playing 6max and go play FR, or even "better", SNGs.
• I think I would not capable of playing the hand in this way or at least play it well enough to make it +EV, but the points I highlighted are invaluable. Easy does not equal most +EV. The best players are the ones that take lines that are non-standard just as GC did. It my not always be correct, but using good logic and having the courage to try will make you a better player. GC gave plenty of good reasons for his line in the hand above and I'll take it for what it's worth.

100NL 6m - Hero raise to $3 with Ad9c UTG, BB fish calls $2.

• Flop: 5h5sKd ($6.20)
• BB checks, Hero checks.
• GC checks back the turn because the board is very dry and his hand has SD value. The check is meant to induce action on the turn from the fish.
• Turn: 3s ($6.20)
• BB bets $6.50, Hero calls $6.50.
• River: 9d ($18.55)
• BB bets $19.50, Hero calls $19.50. BB shows Ks8h.
• GC would have called whether he hit the 9 or not. 
• note: loose, pot bets for value

100NL 6m - Hero raises to $3 with 74hh in MP ($250), CO nit ($225) calls $3, BTN nit calls $3.

• Flop: 3c5d6c ($10)
• Hero checks, CO bets $9, BTN folds, Hero raises to $36, CO raises AI to $223.35, Hero calls $187.35. CO shows 4c4s.
• I love the line GC took in this hand. The two nits in CO and BTN have tight ranges and a lot of it are going to be pocket pairs or overpairs that will stab. The nits 3b shove is good if he has a read that GC is c/r'ing a lot of draws there, otherwise it is bad.
• note: jammed 44 200bbs deep over PFR c/r on 653tt (i had nuts)

100NL 6m - MP unknown raises to $4, CO regish calls $4, Hero in SB calls $3.50 with 3s3c.

• Flop: 3h9cTc ($12.35)
• Hero checks, MP bets $8, CO calls $8, Hero raises AI to $452.05 (~110bb eff stacks)
• GC's plan was the c/r the flop with his bottom set but I feel like leading might be more profitable. He decided to c/rai instead of making a more standard c/r size because it looks more like a bluff which most likely means that he is just targeting the MP opener's overpair range. 

Notes GC took (how I would improve it):

• limpcalled UTG and called 1 barrel on K72tt 
• Lc UTG and called Cb on K72tt, c/f T
• overbet jam draws 
• db overbet jam draws: K8 on 675r (29-6), 33bbs eff
• small c/r on 884tt, bomb flush turn BB v BU 
• small c/r on 884tt, bomb FL T, BB v BU
• fish with SS. didn't stab postflop w gutshot/oe/air @ triple check. 
• fish SS. didn't stab IP w gs/oesd/air vs triple chk
• the "/" separates the streets, first one is flop and so on.
• we can probably gather that the SS fish is passive from the note above.
• plays draws passively on A high board, didn't bluff river when missed 
• plays draw passively on Ahi board, didn't bluff R IP when missed. call/call/chk w KQs on A8Ts-A-x
• limps QQ, check twice on Qxxx, raise river on 4 straight 
• limps QQ, chk F and T on Qxxx, raise river on 4ST
• call 3b OOP and donk 9 (half) twice on Axxx fold to turn jam 
• call 3b OOP, db 1/2p on F, same size on T and fold to jam on Axxx
• potc/r'd flop w monsterdraw on T9x
• same
• c/mr TP on dry board, 40% pot turn, check trips on river
• c/mr TP on dry board, 40% psb T, chk trips on R
• checked back TP vs missed turn cbet, bet 2 into 14 with top 2 on riv
• chk'd back TP IP vs missed Tb, bet 2-14 w top 2 on R
• stabbed ~pot when he wanted folds
• same
• ~pot size as standard size?
• ~psb = standard?
• c/f 943r in BvB 
• bvb, c/f 943r as pfr
• checks the scare card when he hits it 
• chked the scare card when he hit it in 3b pot OOP
• bvb raise cbet on QT4tt, bet smallish again on J turn
• bvb, raise Cb on QT4tt, bet smallish again on J T
• checked A2s CO v BU on K42, bet bit less than half turn and bit more than half w trips river 
• no Cb w A2s CO v BU on K42tt-Jt-2, bet T (4-8.50), bet R (9-16.50) w trips
• call UTG raise and squeeze from SB, c/mr bluff AQx
• call UTGo and sqz from SB, c/mr bluff AQx

The Thin Red Line Episode 1

What is the red line?

Imagine playing against two robots. One is programmed to never fold and the other to only call with AA. When playing against the one that never folds, your red line will never be positive and will be at best, breakeven, but your blue line will be positive because you can value bet them relentlessly. When playing against the robot who only calls with AA, your red line should be positive and your blue line will vary depending on how you play. At micro stakes, most players play similar to the robot that never folds so you should be value betting a lot and will probably have a high blue line and a varying red line. Small stakes will have more solid regulars who will often show down with solid hands and the way to beat these guys is not in value betting but in making good bluffs which increase your red line. Although the regulars are more solid, they are mostly weak tight meaning they will not call down light but will fold to aggression.

How does the red line work?

• Bluffing
• Value betting (the thinner you are capable of value betting, the more your red line will increase. If you are capable of value betting thin, you will increase your blue line when you get called and have the best of it and also increase your red line when your opponent folds.)
• Bluff catching (if you are good at bluff catching, it will be good for your red line. When you fold on the river, your red line will decrease and your blue line will remain stationary. If you are the type who makes a lot of call downs, good or bad, it will keep your red line stationary and increase or decrease your blue line.)

The “standard” game

• Your standard game is what you default to against unknowns. Your play against them based on assumptions of the average player.
• Once you gain more information, you deviate from your standard game and build a game plan around the new information. Problem with most players is that they are either incapable or choose not to adjust their game.
• Players that do not or are incapable of adjusting will allow you to get away with a lot of stuff against them.

Pre-flop deviation: Opening

• “Strong” hands vs. “Pretty” hands (strong = big pairs, broadways, pretty = SCs)
• What are the player types at your table? (when deciding whether to play strong or pretty hands, you should check the players left to act and their tendencies. Against call happy opponents, you want to be opening more strong hands that you can value bet with, hands like K9, A8, QT. Against weak tight players, you can play hands like 75s and 97s because you can semi-bluff them and keep the pressure on.)
• What are their positions and stack sizes?
• Who is the most likely player to give you action? (identify your target so that you can adjust your range according to their tendencies and know what to expect against them.)
• What is your image?
• Stealing with ATC (if you are opening 3x in the SB against the BB, the BB has to be playing 40% of his hands or you show an instant profit.)

Pre-flop deviation: Calling and 3-Betting

• Polarized vs. depolarized 3-betting (as a general rule, we should 3-bet a depolarized range from the blinds because people tend to call more IP and a polarized range IP because people tend to fold more.)
• Your reads and edge determine the range of hands you can play profitably.
• Your opponents' fold to 3-bet and 4-bet tendencies determine your 3-bet frequency and range.
• For 100bbs, “strong” hands play better in 3-bet pots than “pretty” hands.

Post-flop deviation:

• DON’T just make the standard 2+2 ABC play.
• Think of how your opponent plays.
• Come up with a strategy to exploit.
• Do it! (if you come up with a line that you think is most +EV, just do it. Do not worry about what others will think and what the “standard line” is.)

Post-flop deviation: Strategy

• Two big concepts that will help you better understand how to exploit your opponent is Honesty and Dishonesty. A “honest” action is one that represents their hand. A “dishonest” action is one where a player gets tricky to misrepresent their hand. HUDs are a good way to spot honest and dishonest players which will allow you to exploit them.
• Example of a honest play is when a player opens and you call IP. He c-bets the flop and you call. The turn is a scare card and he c/f. This is a sign of an honest player because the scare card is a good card for him to bluff but he folds instead. 
• GC uses the c-bet and fold to c-bet stats a lot. They are good determining level of honesty and point of honesty.
• FvCB: You flop a hand about 1/3 times so if you call only when you hit, you would call a bet 33% and fold 66%. Anyone who folds 60%+ is honest because they call only when they hit their hand or have a draw. We can c-bet against this type of player with a very high frequency, sometimes as high as 100%.
• FvTB:  On the turn, if someone with about 60%+ FvCB calls on the flop, it probably isn’t a good idea to bluff them. We should only continue if we have a hand we want to bet for value/protection or if a really good scare card falls.
• TCB: Many people tend to have a very high/dishonest flop c-bet but honest turn c-bet. Dishonest flop players will often slow down on the turn unless they improved or had a strong hand to begin with which is 35-40% of the time. Although 35-40% TCB is fairly honest, people can still mix up their play so the stat is not completely reliable. This leads us to take a look at their turn c/r.
• Turn c/r: If a player has a low turn c/r and turn c-bet then that is a sign that he is honest. He will be c/f’ing the turn a lot and we can take advantage of that. We can float his c-bets then take it away on the turn when he checks. Note that if the villain bets, our FvTB should be very high. Evaluate according to board texture and hand strength but second pair type hands will usually be no good. This will also allow you to open up your game against this player pre-flop as well. If you find someone who has an exploitable tendency, it makes sense to open up pre-flop against them by calling IP and trying to take it away from them post.
• As the PFR vs dishonest player (someone with a low FvCB and high Bet IP vs Missed CB likes to float a lot):
• FvCB: Against a dishonest player who folds very little to c-bets, we can bet a wider range for value. Their flop calling range can be wide for various reasons but a lot of it will be very weak hands that will either fold to a second barrel or try to take the pot away from you later.
• Bet IP vs Missed CB: A player with low fold to c-bet and high Bet IP vs Missed CB is someone who floats a lot. They plan on calling the flop and taking it away on the turn. The worst thing you can do against this type of player is c-bet the flop and c/f the turn because that is exactly what they want. Instead of taking that line, you want to either double barrel, c/c or c/r the turn. In order to accomplish this, you will have to adjust your flop c-betting range and frequency. 
• Example1: You are OOP with 44 on KT2r. Should you c-bet this flop? Most players would say yes because this is a good flop for our perceived range, but the answer is no because it would be incorrect against this opponent. He will be floating a wide range on the flop and we will be forced to c/f the turn because our hand has very little equity against his range. Folding instead of c-betting the flop is a non-standard play, but correct against this specific opponent. 
• Example 2: You are OOP with JT on KT2r. Should you c-bet this flop? The answer is yes because he will be floating you with a lot of worse hands. On the turn, we can take the c/c line because he has a high Bet IP vs Missed CB, we are basically checking to induce. The river play becomes much more tricky if he bets but the flop and the turn plays are very clear. This same line should be taken with hands like AK. Most people would double barrel the turn thinking that he can call with worse but the truth is this guy’s turn range has a lot of air and cannot stand a double barrel. So instead of double barreling, we stand to make more money by checking to him. He will bet all his worse hands as a bluff and if he has a K, he will bet it for value for us. Another line is to c/r the turn and the question we have to ask is which one will make us more money, c/c or c/r? If we c/r, our opponent can only continue with a very strong hand, hands like Kx or better. We will fold out all his air and get another bet from him on the river. But by the same token, if we c/c the turn, any hand that would have called our c/r on the turn would most likely bet the river anyways. By c/ring the turn, we get slightly more money in when he has a stronger hand but we maximize against his whole range (which is very wide) if we c/c the turn and c/c the river. Again this is a non standard play. Very few people would bet the flop and c/c the turn and river with AK but if you think about it, it makes a lot of sense against this type of opponent. 
• Example 3: You are OOP with QJ on KT2r. This is going to be a standard c-bet because your hand has good equity and some fold equity and it leaves your options open on the turn because you maintain initiative. On the turn, you can either double barrel or c/r. Both are good options but it will be somewhat opponent specific. If your opponent is going to call you down light whether you c/r or double barrel, it would be cheaper to double barrel. If your opponent is capable of folding some marginal showdown hands to a c/r then a c/r is more profitable because you will get a bet out of his bluffs and fold out some marginal hands you are behind. 
• Example 4: you are OOP with TT on KT2r. This hand should be played in the same way as AK following the same logic. Maximize value against his whole range. The only slight difference is that instead of c/cing the river, we can c/rai.
• As Defender vs dishonest PFR:
• What should our strategy be against someone who c-bets 80% on the flop, 60% on the turn and 60% on the river? This person c-bets too much on every street meaning he will have a very weak range overall. First of all we should do the opposite of what our opponent wants us to do, which is fold. His high c-bet percentage across all streets means he wants us to fold the turn or the river so we should never fold after we call the flop. Our flop range needs to be stronger against this villain so that we don’t have to fold the turn. We should never float him and should fold marginal hands that cannot stand a second barrel. 
• Example is 77 on T82 board, we have to fold because the turn becomes very difficult to play. Because our flop range is going to be much stronger, our opponent’s high double barrel percentage is going to be used against him as we will be taking a c/c or c/r line a lot. 
• Another counter strategy against this opponent is to never value raise the flop because we stand to make more calling him down. This can also be extended to our pre-flop play where we attempt to trap him by flatting hands like AA and KK so that we can let him incorrectly attempt to barrel us. Trapping with big hands pre-flop is going to depend on how often our opponent is folding to 3-bet and folding post-flop of course. If he doesn’t fold then you can just 3-bet and abuse him. Now if you have a draw against this guy, it is better to call his c-bet on the flop and raise the turn. As a standard, you would raise the flop against most people with draws but against this guy, his turn range is so weak that a raise will take it down a lot and we win more money when he double barrel and folds. We also look stronger on the turn when we raise as most people raise the flop instead.
• Vs. TAG opponent missing a standard flop c-bet: 
• For example, you are in the BB and call a TAG’s PFR. The flop comes KT2r, you check and he checks behind. This tells you a lot about your opponent’s hand strength. He is c-betting all his TP+ hands and air so when he checks, it is often going to be medium strength hands that are checking to induce and bluff catch (if you see someone take this line with a hand you did not expect, take a note as it will be invaluable to you in the future). When he checks the flop, he is almost never going to fold the turn, so if you plan on betting the turn, make sure you follow through on the river as well otherwise don’t bet at all. The worse line to take is bet the turn and check  river because that is exactly what he wants you to do. Now if you have a TP+ or a strong second pair that you planned on c/c'ing the flop with, you should bet the turn big for value. Your opponent is almost never folding to any size bet so you want to maximize value against them by betting pot or close to pot. This will allow you to maximize value if they call turn and fold river since your turn bet made you the most possible and it also allows you to get more value on the river since your big turn bet sets you up for a bigger river bet. The river bet sizing becomes somewhat of a leveling war because against bad straightforward players, they will call a half pot river bet but not a full pot because it looks scarier, but the truth is, the half pot bet is much more likely to be a value bet than a full pot. You can out level some people by betting half pot with bluffs because it looks like value and full pot for value. 
• Playing second pair/marginal hands against decent to good players: 
• When we have a second pair type hand like AT on KT2r we should check behind on the flop because we don’t believe we can get value. Now when we check the flop, our hand is turned face up and our opponent knows that we have a second pair type hand. He will end up betting the turn with all hands that beat us for value and with some bluffs, but when he checks the turn again, it will almost always be a c/f because he can’t beat second pair type hands. So the question is what can we do to balance our range since our strategy is exploitable. There are two solutions to this, first is to start c-betting second pair type hands. The second one is probably a bit better and that is to check back air as well. By checking back air, we can now make delayed c-bets that will have a very high fold equity on the turn. His double check is indicative of a hand that is c/f'ing. 
• For example, you have 87 on KT2r and you check behind on the flop. On the turn if our opponent checks again, he is telling us that he has a hand that cannot beat second pair and will most likely c/f. We can now very profitably make a delayed c-bet with a high success rate. Now if our opponent bets, he is telling us that he has a hand that can most likely beat second pair and we can comfortably fold. This will strengthen our flop c-bet range and balance our turn range while making our c-bets and delayed c-bets more successful and profitable. As a result, our red line will most likely increase. Remember that this is against a decent to good player, fishes and donks will have a different thought process, try to figure out what it is. 
• Another example of a good flop check is when we have KJ OOP and we 3-bet pre-flop and get called. The flop comes A82 and we have to decide whether to c-bet or check. On this board texture, people expect you to c-bet your air and TP+ hands 100% and when you check, your hand looks like a medium strength hand like KK or QQ that is going for a c/c line. By checking the flop, you can expect your opponents to rarely bluff you because they think your hand is face up. If they do bet when checked to, they most likely have the A or better and are betting for value. You end up saving yourself a c-bet a lot of the them and will also have a very high success rate with your delayed c-bet on the turn when they check behind on the flop. They are basically giving up after they check the flop.
• FvCB and DB relation: Let’s say someone donk bets 100% of the time when they hit something on the flop then that means when he checks, he has pure air. So if his DBs are honest, then his fold to c-bet stat should be very high (we can only c-bet if he checks to us so DB are not counted in the stat). If you ever play against someone who has high DB stat like 30-40% and a low FvCB then his DB is mostly bluffs because he can’t have a c/c range if he DBs all his made hands. The higher their FvCB stat is, the more credit you can give DBs and the lower it is, the less credit. 
• FvCB, Raise CB and FvTB: Someone with a low FvCB and a high Raise CB is going to be dishonest because you only hit a hand 1/3 times. Now if their FvTB is also low then you have a player who is very dishonest especially when he raises your CB. The reason is because the villain cannot have a low FvTB unless his flop calling range is strong and his flop calling range cannot be strong if he Raises CB so much. Now obviously if the player has a high FvTB, you need to give them more credit when they raise your c-bets. Now lets use some numbers to solidify this analysis. If your opponent has a FvCB of 40%, Raise CB of 20% and a low FvTB of say 40% then his flop Raise CB is going to be a lot of air. You hit a hand 1/3 times  or about 30-35%. If he raises with made hands only, then there is only about 15% made hands left in his range. If he only folds to c-bets 40% then he is playing 60% of his range on the flop with 40% of his range left after you subtract his Raise CB of 20%. Well only 15% of the hands left can be a made hand meaning 15%/40% or 3/8 of his range on the turn is a made hand and the other 5/8 is air which he will have to fold on the turn. Now our stat is that he folds only 40% of the turn meaning his calling range on the flop should have a lot more made hands. This implies that his raising range is weak. The only way his FvTB can be low while his Raise CB % is high with strong hands is if he is someone who double floats. Then you are going to have to look at his FvRB stat. (realize that no one is playing 100% of their made hands on the flop so realistically, the numbers are going to be much smaller.)
• A more simple analogy to help understand the relationships above is if a guy is flatting all his premiums pre-flop (slowplaying) and is 3-betting you 3% of the time, his 3-bets are air even if his 3bet stat is low. There are only so many premiums and if he flats them, he already used them up so his 3-bets have to be air.
• WWSF: A dishonest player will have a higher WWSF because he likes to fight for the pot. A honest player will have a WWSF of about 35%. Grindcore has a WWSF of about 50%. If a player with 35% WWSF is betting into you, you should be folding even with your bluff catchers and versus someone with 50%+, you should call down lighter.
• Be careful about sample size as someone with a high WWSF can be just catching cards.
• WTSD: players who have a high WTSD tend to bluff catch more.
• W$SD: someone with a high WTSD and a high W$SD is someone who doesn’t value bet much and likes to trap or slowplay.
• River AQ: players with 20% AQ almost never bluff, 30% bluff a lot and 25% is right in between.
• A player with very dishonest stats such as low FvCB, low FvTB, high WTSD, low W$SD and high WWSF and is down money is most likely going to be a very dishonest player.
• A player with high WTSD, WWSF and W$SD is someone who doesn’t really value bet and is probably winning a lot of pots through aggression and bluffs.
• Also look for players who have a low FvCB and a high Bet River OOP vs Missed CB. These type of players will be floating a lot and trying to take it away on the river. You can check the turn instead of double barreling to get more value from them.
• At the end of the day, it is not about your red or blue line but your green line. Try to make the most +EV play and things will work out.